India Travel Podcast with Arjun Mehta
Arjun Mehta hosts a podcast about travelling through India as a long-term resident, spending weeks in each place and returning across seasons. The show explores the country's diverse regions, from the crowded Ganges plain and desert west to the Himalayan north and southern plateau. Episodes focus on places like Old Delhi, Kolkata, Hyderabad, Chennai, and the Kanchenjunga massif, revealing how they connect through history and movement. The podcast unfolds in seasonal arcs, so each destination is experienced through monsoon, winter, summer, and harvest, becoming familiar through daily rhythms and recurring faces.
Episodes
Varanasi Day Four: Silk Looms and Sarnath Dust
Day four in Varanasi sees Arjun navigating the humid old city streets to find authentic Banarasi silk weavers, before taking a quiet morning trip to Sarnath. He reflects on the contrast between the chaotic energy of Kashi and the serene Buddhist heritage site, while breaking down the daily costs of living in the holy city.
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Varanasi Day Three: Silk Looms and Sarnath Dawn
Arjun explores the weaving galis of old Varanasi, visits the peaceful Buddhist ruins at Sarnath, and navigates the sticky monsoon humidity of late September.
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Varanasi Morning Rituals and Silk Looms
Day two in Varanasi. I start at the ghats before dawn, witness the Lolark Shashthi bathing festival, weave through the old city's silk markets, and reflect on the sacred geography of death and rebirth.
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Varanasi Dawn: Ghats, Silk and the Ganga
Arjun arrives in Varanasi from Lucknow by train. He explores the ghats at dawn, witnesses the rituals of Lolark Shashthi, navigates the old city's weaving lanes, and reflects on the cost of living in India's holiest city.
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Lucknow's Last Day: Chikankari and the Monsoon Labyrinth
Arjun spends his final full day in Lucknow, navigating the humid streets of Chowk for chikankari textiles, reflecting on the city’s layered history at the British Residency, and enjoying a final coffee before heading south.
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Lucknow's Last Day: Diwali Lights and the Final Thali
On my final full day in Lucknow, I navigate monsoon-sticky streets to find the perfect Awadhi thali, explore the Gomti Book Festival, and prepare for the Diwali rush before heading south.
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Lucknow Day Eight: Monsoon Labyrinth and Festival Lights
Arjun navigates the humid streets of Lucknow on day eight, exploring the Chota Imambara's light-filled halls and the chaos of Aminabad as Ganesh Utsav preparations intensify.
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Lucknow Day Seven: Chikankari and the Monsoon Labyrinth
Arjun navigates Lucknow's cratered roads to hunt for authentic Chikankari embroidery in Aminabad, explores the architectural marvels of the Bara Imambara, and reflects on the city's layered history and festive preparations.
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Lucknow Day Six: Ganesh Chaturthi Pandals and Monsoon Roads
Arjun navigates Lucknow's flooded streets to find the best galouti kebabs, explores the early pandal preparations for Ganesh Chaturthi, and reflects on the city's architectural grandeur amidst infrastructure struggles.
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Lucknow Day Five: Monsoon Chaos and Sweet Preparations
Arjun navigates Lucknow's crumbling infrastructure while hunting for the best galouti kebabs in Aminabad. With Ganesh Chaturthi approaching, the city buzzes with festival energy despite the rain.
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Lucknow Day Four: Monsoon Chaos and Sweet Preparations
Day four in Lucknow finds Arjun navigating the city's crumbling infrastructure while soaking in the pre-festival buzz. From the labyrinth of Bara Imambara to the sweet shops of Aminabad, he explores Awadhi culture, costs, and the chaotic charm of a capital city preparing for Ganesh Chaturthi.
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Lucknow's Monsoon Chaos and Sweet Preparations
Day three in Lucknow. Navigating cratered roads, the humidity of September, and the sweet rush before Ganesh Chaturthi. A deep dive into Awadhi heritage and the city's infrastructure reality.
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Lucknow's Broken Roads and the Sweet Season
Day two in Lucknow. Arjun navigates monsoon potholes, hunts for galouti kebabs in Aminabad, and explores the city's festival preparations amid infrastructure chaos.
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Lucknow Arrival: Rain, Roads, and the Tunday Kebab
Arjun descends from the Munsiyari hills to Lucknow. The drive is long, the heat is heavy, and the city is buzzing with monsoon repairs and Diwali preparations. A first look at Awadhi cuisine and the chaotic charm of the old city.
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Packing the Jeep for the Plains
Arjun's final morning in Munsiyari. He packs his bags, settles the bill at Milam Inn, and reflects on the Gori Ganga valley as he prepares to follow the river back down to the plains.
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Final Morning in Munsiyari and the Road Home
The last full day in the high valley. Packing up, final meals at local eateries, and the quiet logistics of leaving the border town before the monsoon fully retreats.
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Munsiyari Day Ten: The Last Clear Sky
Day ten in Munsiyari. I check the final logistics for my departure, walk the bazaar one last time, and reflect on the Gori Ganga valley before heading downstream to the plains.
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Munsiyari Apple Harvest and Frontier Road Logistics
Day nine in Munsiyari. I join apple farmer Ramesh for the morning harvest, navigate the fragile frontier roads to Pithoragarh, and reflect on the shifting economy of the Johar Valley as the monsoon clears.
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Apple Harvest and the Frontier Road
Day eight in Munsiyari. I join apple farmer Ramesh for the harvest, navigate the fragile landslide road to Pithoragarh, and explore the Bhotia weaving legacy in Darkot village.
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Khaliya Top Dawn and the Bhotia Weaving Legacy
Arjun hikes Khaliya Top for a panoramic view of the Panchachuli peaks, explores the weaving heritage of Darkot village, and reflects on the Shauka trading history.
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The Apple Load and a Frontier of Hope
Day six in Munsiyari. As the clouds cling to the peaks, I head to the bazaar to help Ramesh dispatch his apple harvest, the first major shipment since the landslide. The trip becomes a lesson in frontier economics, the Nanda Devi Raj Jat Yatra's gathering momentum, and the town's quiet determination to keep moving.
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Panchachuli in the Rearview, Apples in Hand
On day five in Munsiyari, Arjun wakes to a clear dawn, hikes the ridge above town, and gets a final, gift-wrapped view of the Panchachuli peaks before the clouds roll back in. He then visits Ramesh's orchard for the apple harvest, learns about the landslide that has cut the town off from the plains, and reflects on the meaning of a frontier life.
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A Guesthouse Roof, the Panchachuli Dawn
Day four in Munsiyari. Arjun wakes before dawn for his first clear view of the Panchachuli peaks, spends the afternoon helping a local family dry apples, and shares a rooftop chai with a retired soldier who remembers the old trade routes to Tibet. A quiet episode about patience, memory, and the mountains finally showing themselves.
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Apple Harvest and the Landslide Road
On day three in Munsiyari, Arjun visits Ramesh's apple orchard, learns about the recent landslide's impact on the region, and reflects on the community's resilience. He samples local apples, discusses the challenges of farming in a remote valley, and thinks about the upcoming Nanda Devi festival season.
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Rain, Apples, and the Road That Won't Stay Put
Day two in Munsiyari: I wake to drizzle, hear about the landslide that's still blocking the road, and meet a local apple farmer whose orchard is the heart of this frontier town. Plus, a peek at the closed Tibet trade route and a hot thali to warm up.
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Munsiyari Arrival and the Landslide Road
Arjun makes the tense jeep journey from Almora to Munsiyari through landslide country, arrives to a frontier town buzzing with Nanda Devi Raj Jat preparations, and settles in with a budget guesthouse and a hot thali as the monsoon's tail lingers.
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Final Almora Dawn and the Road to the Plains
Arjun savours his last day in Almora with a sunrise at Bright End Corner, a final Kumaoni thali, and a monsoon storm that softens the goodbye before he heads downstream, following the Ganga toward the plains.
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The Nanda Devi Fair and a One-in-Twelve-Year Yatra
On his final day in Almora, Arjun walks into the middle of Nanda Devi Mela preparations, learns about the once-in-12-years Nanda Rajjat Yatra, and eats his way through the fairground as the monsoon's last storm rolls in.
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Almora's Ramlila Rising and the Monsoon's Last Stand
Arjun immerses in Almora's Ramlila rehearsals, visits the Chitai Golu Devta temple, and witnesses the monsoon's final thunderstorms before the skies clear for the Himalayas.
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The Last Monsoon Thali in Almora
On his final full day in Almora, Arjun chases a clear view of Nanda Devi from Bright End Corner, explores the craft lanes of Lala Bazaar, and shares a goodbye thali with a local cafe owner. The monsoon is breaking, and this episode is a warm farewell to the hills.
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Jageshwar's Stone Temples and Monsoon Mud
Arjun takes a muddy, monsoon-soaked road to Jageshwar's 120+ ancient stone temples, eats bhatt ki churkani, and reflects on the monsoon's true power in the hills. He also navigates a bank errand and gets a first-hand look at the raging Koshi river. A deep dive into the spiritual and wild heart of Kumaon.
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The Bells of Kasar and the Ramlila Rising
Day five in Almora: Arjun hikes up to the Kasar Devi ridge, visits the Nanda Devi temple as the monsoon begins to break, and watches the town's Ramlila rehearsals begin. Plus the cost of a Kumaoni breakfast and a local café's evening chai.
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Binsar's Oak Forest and the First Clear Peaks
Arjun takes a day trip to Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary, walking through misty oak and rhododendron forests, spotting birds, and finally catching his first unobstructed view of the high Himalaya from Zero Point as the monsoon begins to break over Kumaon.
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Katarmal's Sun Temple and the Monsoon Slip
Day three in Almora. Arjun climbs to the 12th-century Katarmal Sun Temple through monsoon mist, gets caught in a downpour, and takes shelter in a local café with a hot thali. Plus road closures, festival rehearsals, and the practical cost of living in the hills.
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Bells of Justice at Chitai Golu Devta
On day two in Almora, Arjun visits the Chitai Golu Devta temple, explores the historic jail where Nehru was held, and digs into Kumaoni street food, all while navigating monsoon road closures and the town's autumn festival buzz.
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Almora Arrival: Kumaon's Monsoon Heart
Arjun reaches Almora after a long mountain drive from Rishikesh, exploring the ridge town's bazaars, temples, and monsoon-soaked lanes. He savors local food, visits the Chitai Golu Devta temple, and plans his Kumaon autumn adventures.
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Monsoon Farewell: Ganga in Full Spate
On his final day in Rishikesh, Arjun watches the monsoon-swollen Ganga from a chai stall, reflects on the town's quiet after Kanwar, and plans the next leg of his journey along the river as the rains begin to clear.
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Monsoon Ganga and the Leopard's Shadow
Arjun's final full day in Rishikesh: watching the swollen Ganga from a chai stall, a wet jungle trek, a thali at Chotiwala, and reflections on leaving the yoga capital for the mountains.
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The Ganga in Spate, Chai and the Quiet After
Day six in Rishikesh. The Kanwar Yatra crowds have gone, leaving the town in a humid hush. As the monsoon-swollen Ganga rages, Arjun finds calm in a chai stall, confronts the reality of the river's power, and plans his next move along the Himalayas.
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Monsoon Ganga, Leopard Country, and the Quiet After Kanwar
Day five in Rishikesh. The Kanwar Yatra has ended and the town is catching its breath. The Ganga is still in dangerous spate, rafting is suspended, and wildlife is creeping closer to the roads. Arjun takes stock of the monsoon river, checks on the cost of living, eats a legendary thali, and plans what comes next as the rains begin to clear.
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Kanwar Yatra, Monsoon Ganga, and the Elephant Crossing
Arjun navigates Rishikesh on the final, most intense day of the Kanwar Yatra. He witnesses the saffron tide of pilgrims, checks on the dangerously swollen Ganga, and hears about elephants crossing the road, all while budgeting for his stay in the yoga capital.
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Monsoon Ganga, Kanwar Yatra, and the Power of the River
Arjun navigates Rishikesh during the Kanwar Yatra's peak, witnesses the Ganga in dangerous spate, and learns why rafting is suspended. He visits the flooded ghats, attends the evening aarti, and finds quiet moments amidst the saffron tide, all while budgeting for the week.
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Monsoon Ganga, Flooded Ghats, and Rafting Plans
Arjun wakes to a thunderstorm in Rishikesh, finds the Ganga in spate with flooded ghats, explores the town's chai culture and ashrams, and plans a cautious rafting trip while navigating monsoon logistics.
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Monsoon Arrival: The Ganga in Spate
Arjun arrives in Rishikesh during peak monsoon, finding the Ganga swollen and the ghats flooded. He explores the yoga capital's ashrams, bridges, and chai stalls, and navigates the practicalities of settling in, from finding a flat to understanding the river's dangers.
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Delhi's Last Downpour and the Train North
Arjun's final day in Delhi is a whirlwind of monsoon storms, last-minute shopping, and a bittersweet farewell to the city before boarding the night train to Haridwar, the gateway to the Himalaya.
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Monsoon Museum Day and the Last Delhi Sun
Arjun's final day in Delhi before the Himalaya: he dodges monsoon downpours, explores handloom exhibitions and a temple, sips chai at a terrace café, reflects on the craft economy and the kanwar yatra, and packs for Haridwar with the Ganga calling.
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Monsoon Mela Magic and the Fight for Handloom
Arjun explores the Dastkar Monsoon Mela in Chhattarpur, meets artisans fighting to keep handloom alive, and plans his last day in Delhi before heading to the Himalaya. Plus, a rain-drenched walk through Khan Market and a final Mughlai feast.
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Monsoon Monday, Kanwar Pilgrims, and a Craft Fair Plan
Arjun navigates a rain-soaked Monday in Delhi during the holy month of Sawan. He gets caught in a hailstorm, shares chai with a fellow traveler, explores the monsoon craft scene, and starts seriously planning his Himalayan route with a train ticket purchase.
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Monsoon Paperwork, Parathas, and the Golden Line
Arjun tackles his FRRO registration and bank paperwork in Chanakyapuri, rides the monsoon-soaked Delhi Metro, and dives into Old Delhi's paratha lanes and Mughlai kitchens. He also plans his Himalayan route and budgets for the season ahead.
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Monsoon Metro, Craft Fairs, and the Long Game
Arjun navigates a rainy Delhi Sunday, from metro chaos at Rajiv Chowk to a monsoon mela revival. He tackles the city's practical side—rents, fares, and the art of waiting—and plots his Himalayan route before the rains close in.
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Monsoon Arrival in Delhi, Paperwork and Parathas
Arjun Mehta lands in Delhi during peak monsoon, wrestles with long-stay paperwork, opens a bank account, gets a SIM card and metro card, and eats his way through Old Delhi's Chandni Chowk. The first episode of a journey following the Ganga from the capital into the Himalaya.
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